Posts Tagged 'stem stitch variants'

split stitch

Posted by on 31 Mar 2009 | Category:

This is a very old stitch which is used for outlining and also for filling in colors for patterns.

Looking back into the history, Split stitch has its popularity placed at a high during the medeival ages in England. The needle work of this times was called Opus Anglicanum.This medeival english needlework comprised of generous use of split stitch for fillings in a motif along with ‘underside couching’ method of embroidery. It covers the whole cloth on which it is worked and leaves negligible space for background. So, we can say that the history of split stitch is akin to the history of Opus Anglicanum.

Origins
Opus Anglicanum was done mainly for the purpose of the rich and powerful churches of the medeival ages. Though it was used otherwise too, only a very few of its kind has survived. Information has it that they were mainly done by nuns or anyone with a seven years of apprenticeship in a secular workshop. It was also populary done among the Anglo-Norman ladies. This was a time when embroidery work was viewed as a highly skilled art work at par with other art forms like stained glass work, sculpture, architecture and, silver and gold metal work. In fact, it was considered to be of a higher esteem than fine art.

Popularity
This embroidery was done with fine silk and gold threads. Not only was it done with expensive materials, but it was labour intensive as well. This made the garments very expensive, so much so, that it went on to become a status symbol for the religious leaders and royalties. From the mid 1200s to mid 1300s, the fine embroidery of England was exported all over Europe and Opus Anglicanum was at its height. Great profits were made by the merchants who hired labourers for this expensive embroidery work. However, the great value of these garments also led to its destruction. When the older garments wore out or was no longer in use, the gold threads and other expensive embelishments would be pulled out and used in new creations. Opus anglicanum used exceptionally high quality materials and was done by highly skilled artisans.

Decline
The decline of Opus Anglicanum was seen from 1348, after the Black Death. The country saw a general unrest with a high decline in population. The time was ripe for newer techniques and materials to invade the textile and embroidery scene. Materials from Italy were used and embroidery work reduced to just borders or applied peices. Weaving took more importance than embroidery. Cheaper and quicker ways of stitching embroidery came into being. Satin stitch, brick stitch, long and short stitch, surface couching and stem stitch slowly replaced the tiny and laborious split stitch.

Instructions
Now let us get on to our lessons. :)

split stitch 1     split stitch 2
Fig 1: Bring out the thread out through A and put it in through B   Fig 2: Take the needle backwards to bring it out through C. Note that C lies half way between A and B.
     
split stitch 3   split stitch 4
Fig 3: While bringing out the thread through C, take it in between the thread, splitting it into two.   Fig 4: Again, put the needle in through D to bring it out through B, splitting the thread.
     
split stitch 5
Fig 5: Continue this procedure to finish the stitch.The only thing to keep in mind is to split the thread when bringing the needle out. In some way, it will give you a visual feel of chain stitch.
 
split_stitch_6
Fig 6: The reverse of the fabric will give you a back stitch pattern.

 

Note:
Since I have taken 6 strands of thread, I have taken care to split them into three each. But I suppose that as we move on to using split stitch for more elaborate designs, we can be leniant with splitting the thread into exact halves. Well, this tip is for the more lazy ones. :D
Rows of split stitch used in close succession can be used to do filling for a design. It is a laborious task, but when done with patience can create beautiful fillings.

whipped stem stitch

Posted by on 17 Mar 2009 | Category:

 

whipped stem stitch 1     whipped stem stitch 2
Fig 1: Lay a foundation of stem stitch. Bring out another thread through the start point and pass it through the first stem stitch.   Fig 2 : Continue this winding action between each stem stitch.
     
whipped stem stitch 3
Fig 3: you should finally get a pattern as shown.

NOTE:
Make sure the fabric beneath is not plucked while whipping the thread around the stem stitch. Use a blunt needle to acheive this.

stem stitch

Posted by on 15 Mar 2009 | Category:

Also known as: crewel stitch, stalk stitch, point de cable

Through my research, I found out that stem stitch is crewel stitch. It is one of the easiest to be done and perhaps even one of the first stitches to be taught to any beginner. But, many times, people often refer to embroidery work itself as crewel work, though the actual crewel stitch (stem stitch) is never as commonly employed in it! This creates a bit of a confusion on if crewel work consists of only crewel stitch (stem stitch).

Let us now get to the procedure. To make the logic clearer for stem stitch, I have drawn a temporary stitch line with a pencil. A stitch line is through which all stitches will be running. Now, note that all the stitch points in stem stitch will fall ON the stitch line. I will be working this stitch from left to right. This instruction is for right handed learners.

stem_stitch_1     stem_stitch_2
Fig 1: Bring out the thread through A and take it in through B. Take the needle backwards and bring the thread out through C. Make sure the point C lies over the stitch A-B.    Fig 2: You need to note that the point C lies about half way through A and B. Also note that C lies on top of the stitch A-B. So, all the subsequent stitch points will lie on top their previous stitch.
     
stem_stitch_3   stem_stitch_4
Fig 3: Take the needle in through D. Try to mark D in such a way that the point B will lie half way through C-D. Bring the needle out through B.   Fig 4: So, the pattern of two stitches of the stem stitch will be as shown above.
     
stem_stitch_5 
Fig 5: Continue this pattern of stitching with the needle coming out through the top of the previous stitch always.
 
stem_stitch_6
Fig 6: The reverse of the fabric will give you a back stitch pattern.

NOTE:
So, the unique feature of stem stitch is that, when you work from left to right, the needle will be brought out from the TOP of each previous stitch. In case you work from top to bottom, the needle and thread will come out through the RIGHT side of each previous stitch. This feature is what makes stem stitch unique from the others in its family. :)

stem stitch family

Posted by on 14 Mar 2009 | Category:


The stitches in this family is usually used to make outlines for a design or pattern.

stem_stitch_family
hand embroidery sample : stem stitch family

The Stem stitch family can be called the cousins of Back stitch family. This is because, stem stitch family follows a pattern where you put the needle in and take a backward motion to bring the needle out and make a single stitch. The interesting thing to note is that the reverse side/ underside of a stem stitch family will produce a backstitch!  

We have to note that, the outline stitch resembles in procedure and looks with the stem stitch. The difference between both is subtle. Visually, in the stem stitch, the gap between each stitch is evident slightly, while it is not in an outline stitch. When it comes to the procedure, the stem stitch follows a pattern where the needle comes out from the right side or the top of the previous stitch, while in an outline stitch, it comes out from the left or bottom of the previous stitch. When we incorporate both stem and outline stitch procedures alternately, we get a new stitch called cable stitch. I felt the need to describe this difference here, so that the learners can pay attention to the logics of these stitches that make them unique. :)