Posts Tagged 'outline stitch'

japanese stitch

Posted by on 11 Oct 2010 | Category:

This variation of stem stitch family looks like satin stitch. The technique used is that of outline stitch, the only difference being that every successive stitch is made within a short gap difference. The tutorial will make it clearer to you.

I will work on an open space to demonstrate this stitch. This stitch cannot be carried out like the other stem stitch varities, in a straight line. Japanese stitch can be used for simple fillings of geometrical nature. It is generally used to depict larger areas of landscape like, water.

japanese_stitch_1      Fig 1: Bring the needle out through A. Now, put the needle in through B and bring it out through C.This process is similar to outline stitch. Only, make sure that C lies at a closer distance to A, and not exactly between A-B like it would in outline stitch.
japanese_stitch_2   Fig 2: Continue this process of stitching.
japanese_stitch_3   Fig 3: A finished series of this stitch would look like this. You will see that though it uses the outline stitch process, it looks like satin stitch.

split back stitch

Posted by on 01 Feb 2010 | Category:

This stitch looks similar to the split stitch, but flatter on the fabric. The technique followed is like the back stitch. This stitch is ideal for making outlines or even for laborious fillings.

You need to know the back stitch to be able to do this stitch. The knowledge of the split stitch will be an advantage.

split_back_stitch_1          split_back_stitch_2
Fig 1: We start normally like a back stitch. Make a stitch A-B. Bring the needle out from C.   Fig 2: Now, like a normal back stitch, take the needle towards B and, splitting through the stitch A-B, put in the needle near B or B itself.
split_back_stitch_3   Fig 3: The stitch would look like this. It looks similar to the split stitch with a slight chain like effect.
Fig 4: A finished row of split back stitch would show up like this.

padded satin stitch

Posted by on 13 Jan 2010 | Category:

This is satin stitch with a little embossed or dimensional look. This is because we first give the pattern a little padding at the base before doing the satin stitch. I will  illustrate this stitch using a leaf pattern.

You need to know any basic straight line stitch like chain stitchoutline stitch , or  back stitch, to do the outlining. You also need to know the satin stitch.

padded_satin_stitch_1   padded_satin_stitch_2
Fig 1: First, stitch an outline of the pattern to be done. I have used chain stitch to outline, but you can use any straight stitch like the back stitch or the outline stitch.   Fig 2: Once the outline is done, fill the inside of the pattern with straight stitches. You can fill it up with chain stitch too. The idea is to give a padding for the satin stitch that we will be doing, so we need not make this stitch to cover the pattern entirely.
padded_satin_stitch_3       padded_satin_stitch_4
Fig 3: Once that is done, do the satin stitch to cover the pattern. The needle needs to go in and out of the fabric from outside the chain stitch.   Fig 4: The completed pattern will look like this.  😀

satin stitch

Posted by on 03 Jan 2010 | Category:

Also known as: damask stitch

Satin stitch has a very easy procedure. What is difficult in this stitch is to maintain the neatness, especially on the sides of the pattern that is being filled. So, very often, a satin stitch is outlined using one of the straight stitches like, the split stitch, the outline stitch, back stitch, chain stitch, or any other similar stitches of your choice.This helps in containing the satin stitch within the parameters of the pattern or motif easily.

Also, when doing satin stitch, we have to make sure the stitches are not pulled too tightly as it will distort the fabric. Keeping it too lose will sag the stitch. To avoid these two conditions, it will be advisable to use an embroidery ring to hold the fabric tight. When the fabric is taut, the satin stitch will be easier to do.

Another thing to keep in mind is not to keep this stitch too long. If your pattern happens to be big, you can divide it into smaller sections and each section can be filled with shorter satin stitches. Else, opt for another stitch from the satin stitch family which will help you to fill larger areas or patterns. These include the brick stitch, encroaching satin stitch, and long and short stitch.

I will be demonstrating over an area between two stitch lines, without any outline stitch.  

satin_stitch_1          satin_stitch_2
Fig 1: Bring the needle out through A and put it in through B. So, that makes a stitch which covers a small area between the stitch lines.   Fig 2: Now, bring the needle back through C, a point very close to A. Continue this action over the two stitch lines.
satin_stitch_3   Fig 3: Once finished, the area is filled as shown above. You will be spending as much thread on the reverse side as you do on the actual side of the fabric.


bluework lessons

Posted by on 08 Aug 2009 | Category:

This is just to give a feel on how bluework will look like.

Bluework and redwork share the same history. Only that, bluework came as a successor to redwork when a new colorfast blue thread was available in the market. Later, a lot many other colors came into availability and many other threads were experimented with. Contemporarily, bluework has been done in many shades of blue in a single design. I have used anchor thread number 0162 to work on the below given design.

Here is a step by step procedure on how this  design was completed in bluework. Click on the stitch names to go to the lessons of each stitch.

bluework_1   bluework_2
I have traced the design to a white cotton fabric using carbon paper.
bluework_3 Back stitch:
I began by making the girl’s face, hands and feet using this stitch.
bluework_4 Lazy daisy:
The flower pattern on the frock is done in lazy daisy. I also made the girl’s eyes and ribbons using this stitch.
bluework_5 French knot:
The best way to fill in dots or small circles is using french knots, which I did on the frock, at the centre of each flower pattern.
bluework_6 Outline stitch:
The outline stitch was used  for the frock, shawl, and hat as it would give a thicker easy flowing look.
bluework_7 Split stitch:
The split stitch looked good for the hair as it would give a thicker look. Two strands of the blue floss were taken and doubled, so that the ‘spliting’ is easy.
bluework_8 Running stitch:
The design on the shawl was apt for a running stitch.
bluework_9 Straight stitch:
I added finer details to the girl by making single straight stitches (single running stitch). I made its eyebrows, eyelashes and the stem pattern on the frock using straight stitches.
bluework_10 Stem stitch:
I used this stitch to do the flowers.
bluework_11 Our finished ‘dutch girl’ would look like this.Click on the image for a bigger version. 

Note: This design helped me to incorporate all the stitches traditionally used in redwork and bluework helping me to explain this lesson to you. Contemporarily, different kinds of straight stitches can be used to work these embroideries.This free design called ‘dutch girl’  has been borrowed from

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